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Spantik Golden Peak 7027 m

Spantik or Golden Peak or Spangtik, grassy land literally, is situated in mineral rich, gateway of largest congregation of highest peaks, Shigar valley of Baltistan, closed to the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif, surrounded by Chogolugma, Kerolugma and Barpu glaciers. Peaks around Spantik are Golden poprash, Haramosh, 7600m, Rakaposhi 7788m, Diran 7266m, Laila 6660m, Sasi Syar, 6048m, Bashkai Peak 7031m.. Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the “Golden Pillar”. It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting.

Climbing

Spantik was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer’s German expedition. The most commonly climbed line follows the south east ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906. The ridge rises 2700 metres over a lateral distance of 7.6 km, at angles which are mostly less than 30 degrees, with a few sections up to 40 degrees. It contains varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and scree.

The mountain is very popular with organised commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers. The short 3-day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization.

The face was climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall.

The ‘international’ team spent five days making the first repeat of Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler’s English route, set up on 5-11 August 1987.

The peak can be approached from Nagar Valley as well as from Baltistan side.

The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at altitude.
In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which it claims is 5273 meters high and descended on Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.

In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather, went to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area.

The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from south-east ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.

The First Pakistani expedition was held in 1988, the team composed of six Pakistan Army Personnel with German Team, The first Pakistani who reached the summit was Captain (now Brigadier) Muhammad Moiz Uddin Uppal, Another expedition named the China-Pakistan Friendship Expedition scaled Spantik Peak. Expedition leader Lt Col (retired) Dr Abdul Jabbar Bhatti in a call from the summit said that the expedition members took turns to reach the summit between 1:45pm and 2:15pm on Sunday July 15. Earlier, the summit team, which had started from Camp II (5, 600 meters) on July 14, set up Camp III (6,000 metres) the same day and pushed for the summit the following day. C III was established 300 meters lower than planned, which, combined with worst weather conditions and lack of visibility during return from summit, resulted in missing the route, and it forced the whole team to spend the night outside the camp, at a time when members were already exhausted. Digging out snow caves was the only option for protection from extreme environment.

Uzma Yousaf on August 2, 2017 scaled the 7,027-metre-high (23,054 ft) Spantik peak. As per available material/record, Uzma is first Pakistani lady to climb Spantik as well as any peak above 7000 meters in Pakistan. She climbed Spantik Peak approaching from Chogholungma glacier above Arandu in Basha valley, Shigar district of Gilgit Baltistan.

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