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Introduction: Spangtik, grassy land literally, is situated in mineral rich, gateway of largest congregation of highest peaks, Shigar valley of Baltistan.closed to the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif, surrounded by Chogolugma, Kerolugma and Barpu glaciers. Peaks around Spantik are Golden poprash, Haramosh, 7600m, Rakaposhi 7788m, Diran 7266m, Laila 6660m, Sasi Syar, 6048m, Bashkai Peak 7031m.

Attractions: The face was climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall.
The 'international' team spent five days making the first repeat of Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler's English route, set up on 5-11 August 1987.
The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at altitude.
In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which it claims is 5273 meters high and descended on Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.
In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather, went to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area.
The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from south-east ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.

Accessibility: Spangtik is accessible via Chogolungma region of Shigar valley Balistan Northern Areas of Pakistan over a long strenuous trekking from Arindo Basha.


Spantik Fact Sheet

Physical Location:

Shigar Baltistan, Baltoro Karakoram, Pakistan
Geographical Location: 36 3'26.01"N-7457'27.05"E
Total Area:
Population: 7428 m
Activities: 2nd Highest Mountain In The World
Best Time: June, July, August
Altitude: 1954
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Tours to Spantik
Spantik Climbing Expedition