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The beautiful Sirwali Peak 6326m, Some 6326 metres above sea level.It is the highest peak of Azad Jammu & Kashmir.It is located at the extreme end of the extremely beautiful Shaunter valley.
Beyond this mountain is the Astore and Diamer District of Northern Areas.The greenery ends here and Astore and Diamer are mostly dry districts because Nanga Parbat massif provides the rain shawdow for the Northern Areas and blocks the passage of Monsson rain in Northern Areas causing these vapurs to fall in Azad Kashmir resulting in lush green Shaunter valley.
If we rightly follow this mountain ridge it will ultimately take us to Nanga Parbat (8126m).Nanga Parbat is approximately 25 to 30 km air distance from this area.
Sirwali Peak, also known as Dabbar Peak, Toshe Ri, and Toshain-I, is a mountain peak located at an altitude of 6,326 meters (20,755 ft) in Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Pakistan. It is the highest point in the state and one of the most challenging and mysterious peaks in the region. Situated at the junction of the Neelam and Shounter valleys, Sirwali Peak is part of the Toshain/Rupal Glacier, which towers over the Rupal Valley of Nanga Parbat. The peak offers stunning views of the surrounding valleys, glaciers, and mountains, but it also poses formidable technical and environmental difficulties for climbers.
has a long and elusive history of exploration and attempts. Despite its allure and prominence, the peak has never been officially climbed, and its summit remains uncharted. The peak has earned various names from different sources, each reflecting its enigmatic and untamed nature. The name Sirwali is derived from the local word for “lion”, while Dabbar means “big” in the Shina language. Toshe Ri and Toshain-I are names given by the Kashmir Tourism Department and the Pakistan Alpine Institute, respectively.
The first recorded attempt to climb Sirwali Peak was made in 2004 by a team from the Kashmir Tourism Department, but the details and outcome of the expedition are not available. Since then, several other teams and individuals have tried to reach the elusive summit, but none have succeeded. In 2015, three Islamabad-based climbers, Imran Juanidi, Usman Tariq, and Khurram Rajput, went missing on their way to the top and were never found, despite extensive search and rescue efforts. Their fate remains unknown and adds to the mystery and danger of the peak.
The only documented successful ascent of a nearby peak was achieved by Simon Messner, the son of the legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner, in 2019. He soloed the summit of Toshe III, also known as Geshot, which is located on the same ridge line as Sirwali Peak. His feat was remarkable and inspiring, but it also highlighted the challenges and hazards of the region. The ridge line that forms the walls of Toshain is composed of several other peaks, such as Toshain II, Toshain IV, and Toshain V (Shounter Peak), which are all heavily glaciated and technical in nature. The extreme weather conditions, avalanches, crevasses, and isolation pose constant threats to climbers, making the ascent a perilous endeavor.
Sirwali Peak remains a symbol of mystery, challenge, and adventure for mountaineers and explorers. It is a peak that demands respect, skill, and courage from those who dare to attempt it. It is a peak that captivates the imagination and the spirit of exploration. It is a peak that awaits the first person to plant their flag on its uncharted summit. Sirwali Peak, the unconquered titan of Azad Kashmir, stands as a testament to the beauty and the mystery of nature.
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